The Ultimate Tour of Santiago Island, Cabo Verde: All You Need to Know in 2023

9 September 2023Manisha Thill

The island of Santiago, the largest island in the archipelago of Cabo Verde, home to the capital city of Praia and half of the population, boasts a little bit of everything making it the perfect island to visit.

With a variety of beaches ranging from the white sandy beaches of Tarrafal in the north to the black, volcanic sand beaches in the capital of Praia, and the rocky beaches in the historical town of Cidade Velha, the island gives you the space to unwind under the sun. And if that is not enough, there are plenty more to uncover scattered in between these major coastal towns. The island is also made up of jagged mountain ranges and fertile valleys, making it the perfect grounds for hiking and getting incredible views of nature and the island.

Often passed over for the upper, Barlavento islands that offer beach getaways (referring to Sal and Boa Vista) during European winters or being a hiker’s playground (referring to Santo Antão), Santiago island can give you the perfect combination of these activities all in one island especially if you are short on time.

GETTING TO SANTIAGO

The Nelson Mandela International Airport (airport code: RAI) offers five international connections:

– Lisbon with TAP Air Portugal twice everyday of the week (one arriving around midday and the other just before or after midnight) and another with Cabo Verde Airlines (4-5 flights per week);
– Paris with Cabo Verde Airlines once a week on Sundays;
– Ponta Delgada with Azores Airlines with flights 2-4 times per week depending on the season (the high summer season has more available flights per week);
– Dakar on Air Senegal with flights 4 times a week and;
– Casablanca on Royal Air Maroc with flights 5 times a week, but take note as not all of them are direct. From the trends I have seen so far, flights on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays are direct but do take the time to double check.

Likkle flying note: when flying between Praia and Lisbon, definitely compare flights between TAP Air Portugal and Cabo Verde Airlines, the local airline, as often it is cheaper with the latter, which can be a significant difference during the busy summer months. However, Cabo Verde Airlines only runs 4-5 times per week making it less appealing than TAP Air Portugal which runs twice every day if you are short on time. Because it also only restarted its flights in 2022, there is a higher chance of the airline running into a problem.

The domestic air connections are provided by BestFly and connect Santiago with all the other islands with an airport:

– Boa Vista (Monday, Wednesday, Friday);
– Fogo every day with flights twice a day on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays;
– Maio three times a week (Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays);
– Sal every day with flights sometimes twice a day;
– São Nicolau once a week on Mondays;
– São Vicente every day with flights sometimes twice a day.

Last updated: September 2023. The current flight schedule covers the period 1 June 2023 – 25 September 2023. For the latest schedule, you can find it here.

There are also ferry connections with CVInterilhas that are a good option to consider to get to the nearby islands of Maio and Fogo within reasonable times:

– Maio: the boat runs 3 times a week in the morning and evening (Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays). The journey takes about 2h and it costs CVE 1,541 each way. This makes it an ideal weekend getaway from Santiago.
– Fogo: the boat also runs 3 times a week on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays. The journey lasts around 4h with the ferry departing Santiago early in the morning and returning from Fogo in the afternoon. The cost of the journey is CVE 3,002 each way.

Last updated: September 2023. Consult the schedule and buy your tickets online here.

QUICK TIPS FOR SANTIAGO ISLAND

– Best time to visit the island: Cabo Verde is a destination that has good weather all year round with some variations. The rainy season is from August – September, transforming the island into a green haven. September and part of October are the hottest months, so I recommend visiting from mid-October to December when the weather is cooler and you can enjoy the island at its prime. If you visit in October, you may also catch turtle nesting season, which starts in July and ends in October, making October my recommendation for the ideal time to visit.

– Cash is important! When you arrive, change some of your currency at the airport to cover your taxi to your accommodation and for any expenses on your first day. The following day, withdraw some money at your nearest ATM. Most restaurants and hotels will allow for card payments. Sometimes, restaurants have two machines, one dedicated to local bank cards so always check in case your card is declined the first few times. But, other than, it is always good to have cash when using taxis, buying snacks off the side of the street, excursions.

– Water: To put it simply, it is best to avoid drinking tap water. Buying bottled water is your safest option and investing in a water filter bottle to be more environmentally conscious. You can use tap water though for brushing your teeth and washing your face. But if it comes out brown at any point, which can happen, just use tap water.

GETTING AROUND THE ISLAND

Airport to city center: the best way to get to the city center is by taxi, which is fixed at CVE 1,000 each way. For flights arriving at night, it is possible that taxi drivers will increase their fare so do not hesitate to negotiate. For some hotels, they can also arrange a private transfer so do check with your hotel if this is possible, providing you with a more comfortable ride in.

Getting around Praia: taxis are really affordable with each journey being between CVE 100-200 each journey. This is the best way to get around the capital city. You can also get a taxi to Cidade Velha, which sits 20 minutes away from Praia by car. A taxi will cost you CVE 1500 each way and if you are in a group of 4, this makes it an inexpensive yet comfortable option to get to Cidade Velha. You can also arrange with the taxi driver when to be picked up.

Alternatively, you can catch a hiace, a collective form of public transport which can be stopped anywhere along a usual route to pick up and drop off passengers. The names comes from the fact that it is usually a Toyota Hiace that the drivers use. You will find them at Terra Branca for CVE 80 each way.

Getting around the island: the best way to get explore the island is by car, which also gives you the most flexibility. A budget friendly option is taking a hiace from Sucupira that takes you through the main road cutting down the middle of the island via Assomada and ends in Tarrafal. The journey to Tarrafal costs CVE 500 each way so if you stop in between depending on where that is, it should be below this amount. Take note that they usually go about every hour with no fixed schedule though as they wait to fill their hiace (14 people).

If you decide to get around by car, here are some car rental companies and their contact details to get you started:

THINGS TO SEE + DO

Tarrafal

One of the first places to go to on the island is Tarrafal, a northern town offering a number of things to do from relaxing on the beach to hitting the waters for water activities (such as diving, surfing, fishing), to hiking the surrounding area and checking out some history at the concentration camp. Find my in-depth guide to Tarrafal here.

In the area, you can make a half day trip to Ribeira da Prata, a secluded black sanded beach and/or Piscina Natural de Cuba, which as the name suggests, are natural pools found among the rocks that you can refresh yourself in. A more detailed guide can be found here.

Praia

When arriving on the island of Santiago, you will likely spend a day or two in Praia, or you might decide to go straight towards the interior away from city life. If you do happen to stay a while in the economic and political center of the country, there are a number of things you can do:

Hit the beaches for some relaxation under the sun. The most popular beach is Quebra Canela, a stretch of black volcanic sand surrounded by a number of restaurants and bars sitting above.

– There is another beach in the city called Prainha, which is a bit smaller and less frequented than Quebra Canela. It is a tiny bay so be careful when swimming, especially on days when the water is a bit rowdy. However, what makes this beach enjoyable is that there is a restaurant that sits on the beach, Linha d’Agua. It offers some sunbeds, and you can really make a day out of it being within reach of food and drinks.

– A last beach to mention is São Francisco beach, a 20 minute drive from the capital. It is a nice stretch of white sand with some coves (Grutas de Salinas) to explore. This is the ideal beach to have a get together like a BBQ. The only issue is here is that there is no public transport to reach this beach. You can either organize with a taxi to take you and come pick you up after a few hours or this is a place to stop over if you are exploring the island with a car.

Stroll through the historical center of the capital, Plateau, and get a glimpse into the life of Cabo Verdeans from those working in the market, selling food off the side of the street, running their errands and those dashing in suits (as it is also where a lot of public institutions are located). Take a pause on the Praça Alexandra de Albuquerque, a square that invites you to take a seat under the trees and watch a typical day in the capital go by. If you want to get a better feel of life like a local, step into the Mercado Municipal da Praia open every day except Sundays to grab some fresh fruit and vegetables.

Where does the name Plateau come from? It gets its name from the fact that it is situated on a plateau that overlooks the port and the other of the coastal areas of the capital.

Not far from Plateau, you can fall onto Sucupira, a colorful African market which is an experience in itself. It is a labyrinth of stalls selling all sorts of things from food like baked goods, fruits, vegetables street food, to livestock, clothes, and toys. It is a place to bargain if you want to get something at a relatively good price.

Near the beach Prainha, you will find the Dona Maria Pia Lighthouse on the edge of the coast. It is not an outstanding place to see in particular, but if you are in the area by the beach and want to take a walk, this would be a relaxing option. It is free to enter and there is a man who maintains the lighthouse who can take you to the very top to get an elevated view looking inwards of the coastal capital. I also have a comprehensive food guide for the capital city of Praia including the best cafés, restaurants, bars and takeaway joints, the dishes or drinks I would recommend as well as places which have WiFi. You can find my food guide to Praia here.

Cidade Velha

As an important, historical town, Cidade Velha is a must visit and its proximity to the capital makes it the ideal half day trip. As the first and former capital of the archipelago, it marks the beginning of what we know as Cabo Verde today with the arrival of the Portuguese, who discovered the islands in the 15th century and founded the first settlement at the mouth of Ribeira Grande (former name of Cidade Velha). With its historical importance still lingering, Cidade Velha now thrives as a UNESCO heritage site. Things to do in Cidade Velha include:

– Start at Pelourinho, a square with an obelisk/ pillory (hence the name in Portuguese) that serves as a reminder of its history as a place for international slave trade along trade routes.

– Take a stroll down the cobblestone streets and admire the colonial houses. You will typically find this along Rua Banana.

– Other things you can check out include Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário (at the end of Rua Banana) or a monastery by the name of Convento de São Francisco.

– Lastly, climb up Forte Real de São Filipe, a 16^th century fortress overlooking Cidade Velha down below. In the past, it served as a defense system and now, it allows for people to see where Cabo Verde started while offering some really good views.

– Right in front of the main square, you will find a stretch of rocks which lead down to a beach if you need to cool off after walking around under the hot sun, and especially if you took the time to climb up the fort. You can go for a swim here or spend a few hours at Hotel Vulcão instead. It offers non-guests the chance to enjoy their hefty lunch buffet for CVE 500, often with live music being played by local artists. If you also want to enjoy the pool and have ocean access from their dock, you can pay CVE 1,500 for this whole package.

There is also an easy hike you can do starting in Calabaceira and ending in Cidade Velha which takes 2h (maximum 3h). You can check a rough marcation of the trail on the map below (trail marked in orange). The important thing to note is that it is along the valley. You can finish the day off watching the sunset in Cidade Velha while having a cold beer and snacking on some fried moreia (moray eel).

Pedra Badejo

Located in the east of the island, the town of Pedra Badejo is known for its roads filled with palm trees on either side and banana plantation sites. This area is characterized by these two fruit trees, and it makes for a nice stop on an island tour with many photo opportunities.

Serra da Malagueta

When crossing over into the north of the island from Praia, you will climb up the mountain range of Serra da Malagueta stretching from west to east. Even just by driving through it, you will feel like you briefly stepped out of the island, sitting high above the clouds and where it tends to be significantly cooler compared to the rest of the island. Some days you might find yourself driving through a thick fog, putting you through an eerie feeling as you barely see a few meters in front of you so definitely be extra vigilant in these moments.

The highest point of this range is located at 1,064 m and makes it a great place to go hiking and to get some amazing views of the island. There is no way wrong way to do a hike here as they all start in the same area. The safest way to start is at the information center where you can get a map and advice on where to go. You might find yourself in a situation where the path you intended to take is blocked or not safe to use due to weather-related conditions. In the map below, I pinpoint exactly where the information center and the 2-3 hikes I recommend embarking on, which are:

– Serra da Malagueta National Park: The duration is about 2.5-3 hours depending on your pace (trail marked in green in the map below).
– Serra da Malagueta – Principal: The duration is about 4-5 hours depending on your pace and the time you take at rest and photo stops (trail marked in purple).
– Serra da Malagueta – Gongon: This one one follows the same path as the one to Principal, but with an extra 2.5 km, roughly 45 minutes more (path marked in blue). In both cases, I recommend having a driver waiting for you in Principal or Hortelão as it is not a loop, but a hike that starts in point A and ends in point B. If you go with a guide, transport back to Praia or Tarrafal is usually arranged by them. And if you do decide to do the second and third hike, you can follow the trail on the AllTrails app here.

There is also no best time to do the hikes but as far as recommendations go for the best time to visit the island, it would be over the period September – November where it is the greenest and after the rainy season. Note that in the summer of 2023, some major wildfires took place so it can be a bit more barren as usual, but it should not take away from the lushes green site it is known to offer.

Principal

Sitting below the Serra da Malagueta wedged in a valley is the town of Principal, without a doubt my favorite spot on the island. As you drive up the road to this area, you will be greeted by a barrage of water and bright greenery surrounding it, making it quite a site. There is a small duo restaurant and shop, Sabor, located at the end of the road, making sure passerbys can fuel up before hiking further up the river or when they come down from Serra Malagueta. For a complete guide to navigating Principal, check out my dedicated blog post here.

Pico de Antónia

The mountain range of Pico de Antónia hosts the highest point on the island at 1,392 m. These mountains spread across the center of the island giving you another ground for hiking. The main hike to try is to climb up Pico de Antónia itself. But there is a catch. It is one of the most punishing hikes in Santiago. It is recommended to start early as it takes about 5-6 hours and once the sun is out, it is hot and there will not be much shade the moment you reach the base of the mountain.

The recommended starting point is in Rui Vaz. As with other hikes mentioned so far, check the map below for the exact trail marked in yellow. Alternatively, you can follow the path using the AllTrails app here. You will start off at the antenna here you can park your car. For the first 2 hours, you will be led through a number of trees and farm animals until you reach the base of the mountain. This is where the climb starts for another 2-3 hours with some sections of steep uphill climbing. Once you reach the top, take in the view, take a well-deserved break until you are ready to head back down. Within the first 2 hours of the hike, you might have noticed that the path split into two. When you come back to this, you can decide on finishing in two ways: 1) you return to Rui Vaz (the trail marked in the map below and on the AllTrails app) or 2) you go down to Longeira.

The second option can be quite vertigo inducing and probably not the option for those who have a fear of heights as it is along the mountain face. It is a 30-minute path that can be quite tricky and though it might be no problem for expert hikers, it is definitely recommended to do with a guide. Longeira is great to visit during the period September – January, as you will descend alongside the biggest (and only) waterfall of Santiago as well as the only place that feels like a pine forest. You will find trees that are really close together and very tall, making you feel immersed. It is also the part of the island where they grow local strawberries. Following this path, you will end up in São João dos Órgãos where there is an eco-lodge called Lemba Lemba. It is a nice spot to grab a cold beer and local food. If you do decide to go to Longeira, it is best to arrange a driver to come pick you up, otherwise, it is quite the journey back. If you decided on taking the path back to Rui Vaz, you can do this hike on your own and park where you started.

Rui Vaz

Near Pico de Antónia, the mountain village of Rui Vaz is nestled within a natural park. As mentioned, you can start the hike to the highest point on the island from here. This is a nice place to come to for some sightseeing; including a viewpoint allowing you to see the rest of the island down below. A good place to have Sunday lunch is at Quinta da Montanha, which serves an all you can eat buffet of locally sourced food with local live music for CVE 1500. If you have the time and want a quiet, nature-filled weekend, you can spend a night in the area surrounded by nature with the mountains and even clear skies making it ideal for stargazing.

Boa Entrada

In the center of the island, after passing the town of Assomada, you will find directions to Boa Entrada. Here you will find the biggest and oldest tree of Cabo Verde, also known as Poilão.

ISLAND TOUR ITINERARIES

Now that you have an idea of what there is to see and do on the island, below are a few possible itineraries to take you around the island depending on the amount of time you will dedicate to the island.

1 day island tour from Praia

– Drive through the center of the island via Assomada making a picture stop at the famous “I Love Assomada” sign;
– Stop at the Piscina Natural da Cuba to cool off in the natural pools;
– At Ribeira da Prata, take a brief walk along the beach (viewpoint);
– Grab lunch in Tarrafal and chill by the beach for some post-lunch relaxation;
– Head back down on the eastern coast towards Principal, where you can take in some incredible views of the greenery the island has to offer (viewpoint);
– Take a photo break in Pedra Badejo along the rows of coconut trees before (viewpoint);
– Returning back to Praia.

2 day island tour

For a 2-day island tour, I recommend the same itinerary as the one above and spending the night in Tarrafal to give you more time in Tarrafal itself or in Principal. With a night in Tarrafal, it gives you more time to explore the northern sites with more time like Ribeira da Prata, Piscina Natural da Cuba, hiking in Serra Malagueta and Principal.

3 day island tour

For a 3-day island tour, I recommend the same itinerary as the 2-day tour and spending the first night in Praia to spend a half day in Cidade Velha with the second night in Tarrafal.

5 day island tour

For a 5-day island tour, I recommend the same itinerary as the 1-day tour and spending 2 nights in Praia and 3 nights in Tarrafal to include more time to hike in the Serra da Malagueta national park, take part in water activities and overall, to go at a leisurely pace. Or you can reverse it and spend more time in Praia and do more of the hikes on the lower side of the island like around Pico da Antónia and Rui Vaz.

SUGGESTIONS FOR TOUR OPERATORS AND GUIDES

Throughout this guide I mention the need to get a guide and this is especially the case for hikes. Below you can find a non-exhaustive list of some tour operators and guides on the island that can propose tours that they often frequent, or that they can curate one for you according to your interests or if you want to do the things I mention. Just describe what I have written in my guide, and they will surely know what you are referring to.

– Atlantur Cabo Verde | IG: @atlantur.caboverde
– Barracuda Tours
– Cape Verde Tours | IG: @discover_santiago_island
– Praiatur | IG: @praiaturcv
– Kid Trekking Tours
– Rural Tours | IG: @rural_tours_santiago_island
– Santiago DMC & Incoming | IG: @santiagodmccv
– Xplorá | IG: @xploracv | Contact #: +(238) 971 31 32
– Santiago DMC for Santiago Island | Contact #: +(238) 911 23 57

LIKKLE TRAVEL TOOLS

📱 e-SIM (digital SIM cards) for over 200 countries and/or regions with Airalo (check your phone compatibility to use e-SIMs).
🏥 stay protected with travel medical insurance. I recommend using SafetyWing.
🛎️ book your stay with Booking.com.

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