A first visit of Croatia: all you need to know about Split and Dubrovnik
Split and Dubrovnik
A first glance at Croatia
Croatia was one of those countries that had long been on my list. When I was living in Brussels, I went to the European School, a time when I started to learn more about European lifestyle and habits. I remember hearing my classmates tell me about their summer vacations in Croatia, a country I did not know much about, let alone hear of to be able to place it on the map. This was around the time it was preparing to join the EU. Around 2016, Croatia was popping; articles would show up on my social media feeds uncovering its beauty one picture at a time. The more I got to see and learn about this country through other people’s eyes, the more I was ready to see it all for myself.
I first visited in the summer of 2019 after graduating university spending a weekend uncovering Split and Dubrovnik. My Croatia itinerary went something like this:
DAY 1: London – Split
When I landed in Split, my first impression of the airport was simple – it is small and easy to navigate. In the main hall of the airport, you will find the check-in counters catering to all airlines, a bag drop off zone and some self-check in kiosks. There are no shops in the main hall, only some bathrooms and ATMs for any urgent needs before leaving the airport. Since I was renting a car, I left the main hall towards the car rental, also leading to the main parking. I booked with Avantcar among numerous car rental agencies available, which seemed to be a popular choice because at the time, most people were lining up for Avantcar. And to top it off, the process moved rather slowly.
Finally arriving at my Airbnb, I quickly headed into the heart of the city in search for something to eat because it was quite late at night. Something to keep in mind is that most kitchens close about 30 minutes to an hour before closing time, which comes in handy especially if you have to scramble last minute for a restaurant and navigate a new city, especially the maze-like streets of Split. I ended up having dinner at Lxvor Café & Restaurant, opposite the Saint Domnius Cathedral. I found the food to be satisfying enough to keep my stomach full until the next day. What I enjoyed most about this place was the atmosphere. Being there on a Friday night, I caught a glimpse of the place bustling with music and dancing. Reading more about the restaurant later on, Lxvor is known to be a popular spot for both locals and tourists, and holds 1,700 years of history within its walls.
DAY 2: Split
The next day, I started off with brunch at Zindandel Food & Wine Bar, a place that has generally left people with a positive experience and known for being one of the best wine bars in Split. For any wine lovers out there, this is a place to check out. As I just wanted something small, I had their eggs benedict to then walk off by exploring Split.
WHAT TO SEE + DO
DIOCLETIAN’S PALACE
One of the things I did not realize right away was that the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace make up the heart of Split. Every maze-like street, the site I was looking for ended up being all around me. I also descended into the Basement Halls of Diocletian’s Palace where vendors display an array of things for you to take back. This is also where you will find the entrance to the museum dedicated to the palace.
SAINT DOMNIUS CATHEDRAL
VESTIBUL
THE RIVA
Walk along the Riva or spend an afternoon sitting at one of the bustling cafés. This is also where you take the ferry to visit the Split islands.
Likkle recommendation: exchange money with no commission at Casa De Cambio, Ul. Mihovilova širina 1-2, 21000, Split, Croatia
After walking around Split for a couple of hours, I stopped for some afternoon drinks at Sanctuary Bar. I really liked this place for its outdoor seating area where you can relax with friends, and their wide selection of drinks that were not only good but affordable. This is definitely a place to stop by. To finish off the afternoon, I wanted to get an idea of what Croatian beaches were like. Located in the Marjan Forest Park, I headed over to Kasjuni beach. It turned out to be the perfect end to the day. It was a lively beach that also had a calming effect because I got there for sunset. If you are looking for a beach near Split, this is the place to be. I would recommend bringing some food and drinks, something thick to sit on and water shoes as it is very rocky.
Likkle recommendation: water shoes are a must in Croatia because any body of water that you will enter is just full of rocks and it will save you a lot of hassle and pain!
DAY 3: Half-day trip to Krka National Park
Find the full list of up-to-date prices here.
There are multiple entrances to the park as your ticket allows you to see and do different things depending on your interests. I entered from Lozovac, the main entrance equipped with an information center, parking and a place to eat and drink. From here, I took the Krka Lower Course starting with a shuttle bus to the bottom and then walking the circular trail, which covers 1,900m over several wooden bridges. It was a chill walk down to the falls; the path was well made and I did not find it too hot with the surrounding trees and being in close proximity to the water.
With every turn along the bridge, there was a new view to admire. There are also resting spots along the way if you need to break up the walk down. Do not miss the imperial viewpoint allowing you to down at the Skradinski buk, giving you a first glance at what you are about to dive into. Generally, it should not be too difficult to miss in the summer because chances are there is a sardine load of people crunched up in a corner providing you with some indication.
As I mentioned, water shoes will come in handy here because the entrance to the falls is filled with rocks. There is no one way to get in and out, and you will end up climbing and sliding your way through. As someone who has a good balance, it still seemed very daunting and I did have a few slip and slides.
After a refreshing swim (the water is ice cold), I checked out the food stalls that were stacked with a wide range of things to choose from. Some stalls also offered meals deals which suited my needs well and I ended up with a hot dog, fries and a bottle of water for just 15 Kn. But of course, you can also pack your own little picnic.
On returning to Split, I headed back into the city center one last time for dinner. I stumbled upon a place called MakaMaka acai/poke bar, my first and best bowl so far. To make it even better, you can put together your own bowl, something I prefer and appreciate because I like to eat everything on my plate. I am sure we have all been faced with those moments when you look at the menu, lock onto something but realize there is an ingredient you do not like which ends in two ways: 1) passing on the dish altogether or 2) ordering it and pushing the unwelcome ingredient to the side which isn’t what you want either. So this play allows you to maximize your order and wipe your plate clean.
DAY 4: Split – Dubrovnik
On my last day in Croatia, I headed south to Dubrovnik. It is about a 3-hour drive, but the journey is often much longer because of the tolls, border control in Bosnia and Herzegovina and the likelihood of trailing a bus, truck or slow drivers for a number of kilometers given the windy, narrow coastal road.
Likkle recommendations:
– Take note of the tolls along your journey and make sure you have change on you in Kuna
– You actually cross the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina for a few kilometers before entering back into Croatia. I was confused at first as to why I was faced with passport control but when looking closer at a map of the Balkans, I realized that the southernmost part of Croatia is completely separated from the rest of the country by chunk of Bosnia and Herzegovina so definitely make sure you are able to enter Bosnia and Herzegovina even if you did not intend to. This is also useful to know when planning a trip involving both countries.
Approaching the old city of Dubrovnik, I realized how small it is compared to the number of people it attracts, especially in the summer. Can it really hold that many people? For me, it is a city that has been hit with overtourism, which often tarnishes the place for me. For example, I got a really good parking spot only a few steps from the Pile gate, but costing me €30 for two hours. A whole €30, which is insane to think about especially in comparison to the €1 parking fee in Split.
I got the opportunity to go back to Dubrovnik this year, which I saw as an opportunity to see it in a different light. It was a lot more chill being able to explore with less people around. While I appreciate it for its beauty and architecture, it is quite expensive, and I personally struggled to sift through the many restaurants to find a balance between good and affordable food.
Coming back to my trip, I started off with lunch at Amoret then continued to walk around the city, up and down different paths. One of the things I wanted was to get a good view of the city. My first thought was walking along the edges of the walls. However, I eventually found out that you had to pay to access this area (of course, how else will you make your money?) for 200 Kn (€27). I did not end up doing this because I do not think it is worth the price particularly in the summer when it is very hot and once you get up there, you kind of have to commit and face the sun as there is no shade to shield you from the sun.
Likkle recommendations:
– Be prepared to climb through the different paths around the old town and take it easy during the summer months when it is blazing hot
– Alternatives for the best views of the Old Town would be to either: 1) head across the old town to Lovrijenac, a historic fortress offering a panoramic view for 50 Kn (€7) or for free if you just climb up to the entrance, 2) ride the cable car for 170 Kn (€23) for an adult round-trip or 3) hike up Mount Srđ, the free alternative to the cable cars. If you are planning to visit during the summer when it is scorching (do not underestimate the sun), take this into consideration when hiking. Aim for sunrise/sunset or combine with taking the cable car in one direction. These are cheaper and better experiences to view the city beyond the walls.
– On the way to Dubrovnik, I was captivated by the side roads that led down to the beach. One of the spots that drew me in and that I would recommend is located right after leaving the Bosnian border (direction Split). Parked on the side of the highway, I headed down to Moracna Beach, which had a restaurant, sun beds and water activities. If I was not time constrained to get to the airport, without a doubt I would have taken a dip as the Adriatic waters were so inviting.
Everything went smoothly when dropping off the car. The departures lounge had a few duty-free shops with one big, main shop. It did not have many places for food and drinks that were particularly appetizing but because I did not eat anything since Dubrovnik and I was getting on a late flight, I settled for a very basic ham and cheese sandwich and a soft drink. If you have the time, I recommend eating before heading to the airport or packing a few snacks to have something more enjoyable on your journey. And that’s a wrap! Croatia is without a doubt a beautiful country with vibrant colors and a rich history. There is so much to see and do, you cannot be disappointed.
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