A Tour Around Santo Antão, Cabo Verde: All You Need to Know in 2023
Santo Antão, is the mountainous island of Cabo Verde and forms part of the Barlavento islands. It is among the more isolated islands of the archipelago as its only access point is by ferry from São Vicente. But this island is incredibly worth your time. Think about splitting this island in two with greatly contrasting landscapes. When you first arrive in Porto Novo, the landscape is dry, barren and rocky, like somewhere from out of space and a space rover is about to land any second. Then you cross over to the side of the island and enter a sub-tropical climate often hiding beneath the clouds. Filled with endless greenery and rich soils for a variety of agriculture, this is truly a hiker’s playground. The landscape is both breathtaking and a breath of fresh air at the same time.
GETTING TO SANTO ANTÃO
Santo Antão is accessed by ferry with CVInterilhas. The ferry from São Vicente arrives daily at 08:00 and 15:00. It leaves for São Vicente every day at 09:00 and 16:00.
Last updated: February 2022
THE IDEAL ISLAND TOUR
Santo Antão is best experienced spending a few days on the island, really immersing yourself and taking in what it has to offer, especially on the many possible hiking trails. But at times, we travel on a short budget or time constraints, which should not prevent you from getting a taste of what this island is all about. I present you with the ideal island tour.
View point of São Vicente, São Nicolau, Santa Luzia
Leaving Porto Novo and winding up the road towards Cova de Paúl, you can make a stop and look back on the road. This offers you a viewpoint of three of the other islands: São Vicente, São Nicolau, Santa Luzia.
Vale de Paúl
Before turning left towards the viewpoint for Cova de Paúl, take a right towards the viewpoint for Vale de Paúl. The view is truly amazing, and the fact that my friends gasped when we arrive says it all.
Cova de Paúl
A volcanic crater surrounded by tall mountains and filled with fertile plots for farming and pasture. On some days, you can watch as the weather changes and see the clouds filling the crater.
Drive along the Old Road to reach Ribeira Grande
From Cova de Paúl, take the Old Road known as the Estrada da Corda (which as the name suggests, goes through the town of Corda) towards Ribeira Grande. Along this road, you will find mesmerizing scenes, intriguing rock formations and endless greenery.
Ribeira Grande
From the town of Ribeira Grande, take a scenic drive through the municipality up to Xôxô. There is not much in Ribeira Grande but there are a couple of guesthouses and shops if you need to make a stop. Some guesthouse suggestions include: Casa Santa Barbara Deluxe Guesthouse, and Divin’ Art Guesthouse.
Ponta do Sol
Close to the sea, this town gets its name from the greater amount of sunshine it gets from the rest of the island. Here you will find colorful colonial styled buildings hosting a number of guesthouses and restaurants as well. From the main square, follow the cobblestones leading you down to the waterside where you will find a small fishing port. This is also where the former airport was located before being closed down in the 1990s due to unsuitable conditions. If you spend a night here, you can start the next day with a walk/hike towards Fontainhas, Corvo and Formiguinhas and even as far as Chã de Igreja.
Fontainhas
Fontainhas is a popular spot to walk to from Ponta do Sol. The cobblestone path along the coast is narrow, but it can be accessed by car. Continue your island tour along this path until you get a view of Fontainhas, one of the most beautiful, colorful villages perched on the side of the mountain. As a popular hike, walk through the village and continue onto Corvo and Formiguinhas.
Sinagoga
After Fontainhas, make your way back towards Ribeira Grande and continue along the coast heading east. You will pass the small village of Sinagoga, a former settlement of Jewish immigrants where you can also find some natural pools for a refreshing dip.
Paúl
Your last stop on the island tour is Paúl, also known as Vila das Pombas. It is a quiet town with a variety of accommodations for you to spend the night after a long day of driving through the highlights of Santo Antão. Before unwinding for the rest of the day, drive or walk to the interior of Paúl where you will find the traditional houses and the Distillery Beth d’Kinha, a grogue factory that makes Cabo Verde’s national alcohol drink. The next morning, head back to Porto Novo through the newly paved road along the east coast. If you are visiting Santo Antão with more time, do the trails and visit the western side of the island. Head towards Tarrafal, taking the direct, paved road from Porto Novo, finished in February 2021.
ACCOMMODATION
Aldeia Jerome (Paúl)
Aldeia Manga – Eco Lodge (Paúl)
Mar Tranquilidade (Tarrafal)
Quinta Cochete Specialty B&B (Cha de Morte)
FINAL THOUGHTS
I have not visited all the islands that make up Cabo Verde, but I already know Santo Antão is my favorite. As someone who goes crazy over incredible landscapes filled with greenery and an emphasis on small-scale agriculture, this place is truly amazing. It is the type of place that gets your head in the clouds (which is ironic given that it is hidden underneath the clouds) yet makes you feel incredibly grounded. It is a place that re-calibrates you. I only got to spend about a day and a half due to certain time constraints, but I am already planning my return particularly to do some of the trails and immersing myself further into the island.
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