The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Cabo Verde in 2022

Quick COVID-19 resource for Cabo Verde: Travel Cabo Verde

Cabo Verde is an archipelago made up of 10 unique islands sitting in the mid-Atlantic, off the coast of West Africa. Out of of the 10 islands, 9 of them are inhabited and it can be divided into:
– The Barlavento (Windward) islands made up of Santo Antão, São Vicente, Santa Luzia, São Nicolau, Sal and Boa Vista;
– The Solavento (Leeward) islands covering Brava, Fogo, Santiago and Maio.

Let us dive into a bit of background to understand how Cabo Verde came to be. In the 15^th century, the Portuguese settled on the archipelago and set up a trading center for slaves. This is important in understanding the ethnical background of Cape Verdeans, a mixture of Portuguese and West African descent. This is also reflected in the local language, Creole, the main language spoken among the population with Portuguese as the official language. In 1960, a number of Cape Verdeans joined the liberation war against Portuguese rule in Guinea-Bissau, led by the African Party for the Independence of Cape Verde (PAICV). Cabo Verde gained independence in 1975 followed by a brief interest in uniting with Guinea-Bissau but this did not end up materializing. During this time, a one-party system was established, the PAICV. Since 1990, the country has been enjoying multi-party elections with peaceful, uncontested handing over of power between the two main political groups.

Cabo Verde is one of the most stable democracies in Africa, allowing it to also experience incredible growth and development. This, however, has slowed down in the last 14 years by its dependence on Europe (in terms of tourism, trade, investments, etc.), the challenges of being a small island state with a population spread across 9 islands, the effects of a prolonged drought since 2017 and a growing public debt. With the addition of the current sanitary crisis, the archipelago has been one of the hardest hit countries globally, and it is currently experiencing the worst economic recession since independence. With tourism being a major contributor to its economy, it is important now more than ever to visit these islands. And, they have a lot to offer.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE LEAVING

Language: Despite Portuguese being the official language and of course spoken by the population, people generally tend to speak Creole and are more comfortable doing so especially amongst themselves as it is spoken in every household. English and French are also understood and spoken by some, but it goes a long way to know a bit of Portuguese.

Currency: Cape Verdean Escudo (Esc/CVE) | Something worth noting is that it is pegged to the Euro because of Portugal. This makes it easier to estimate the cost of things. The way I do it is by moving the decimal point twice to get an idea of how much things are and to be more accurate, take off another 10%. The conversion is about €1 – CVE 110.

Electricity: 230V/50Hz | European 2-prong rounded pin (Type C and F)

Water: It is best to avoid drinking tap water. Buying bottled water is your safest option and investing in a water filter bottle to be more environmentally conscious. Since living in the country, I do think it is safe to use tap water for doing things like cleaning produce that will be cooked, brushing your teeth and washing your face. And on the topic of water, while the country has made great strides in improving access to clean water and sanitation, the process is energy intensive and costly so it is important not to waste water where you can.

Entry into the country: Currently, 60 countries are exempt from requiring a visa to enter Cabo Verde. These include countries in the EU and the EEA, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., Brazil, Singapore and African countries, primarily in West Africa. These visas have a duration of either 30, 60 or 90 days. The full list can be found here. Every visitor to the archipelago above the age of 2 must fill out and pay for the EASE (Efficient, Automatic and Safe Entry), an airport security tax. This includes passport holders of visa exempt countries. It is recommended to fill this form out at least 5 days before departure and will cost you CVE 3,400 (€31).

When to visit: The great thing about Cabo Verde is that it is warm all-year round making it a great destination whenever you feel to escape your current reality. The ideal time to visit is between November – June when the temperature sits comfortably in the mid to high twenties during the day. At night, the temperature drops to low twenties until the spring. There are additional activities and island specific conditions you may want to consider:
– Mindelo Carnival on the island of São Vicente in February.
– Rainy season from August – September. This time would best best avoided because the rain and the change of limited sunshine might spoil your trip. In addition, it remains extremely hot with September being the hottest month. I would recommend coming in October or November when the temperatures become more bearable and islands like Santiago are fully green.
– Windy season from October – July which is strongest during the winter until mid-spring. This is the ideal time for wind dependent watersports, but you can do this at any time of the year. During the winter, dust from the Sahara Desert is often carried to the islands of Cabo Verde, making the sky a bit hazy and reducing visibility. While all islands experience the windy season, it is felt more in the Barlavento islands.
– Sal and Boa Vista are ideal for watersports like surfing (including the kite and wind type), snorkelling, scuba diving all year round. Scuba diving is best avoided during the rainy season when the rain can affect visibility.
– Whale watching during the peak of March – April in Boa Vista, Sal and Maio. The main species is humpback whales, but pilot and sperm whales have also been spotted.
– Turtle watching is best in August – September. Cabo Verde is home to loggerhead turtles, hosting one of the largest nesting populations globally. They mainly nest on the islands of Boa Vista, Maio, Santiago and Sal from July – October. You can also swim with green turtles in São Pedro in São Vicente all year round.
– From December – May, temperatures are much lower on the mountainous islands of Fogo, Santiago and Santo Antão.

Where to fly: There are four international airport accommodating direct flights from European cities, Casablanca and Dakar:

Island	Airport name and code	Direct flight connections
Boa Vista	Aristides Pereira International Airport (BVC)	Amsterdam, Birmingham, Brussels (via Sal), Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hannover, Lisbon, London Gatwick, Luxembourg, Manchester, Paris Orly
Sal	Amílcar Cabral International Airport (SID)	Amsterdam, Birmingham, Bristol, Brussels, Düsseldorf (via Boa Vista), Hannover (via Boa Vista), Lisbon, London Gatwick, Luxembourg (occasionally via Boa Vista), Manchester, Paris Orly, Stockholm, Zürich
Santiago	Nelson Mandela International Airport (RAI)	Casablanca, Dakar, Lisbon, Ponta Delgada
São Vicente	Cesária Évora Airport (VXE)	Amsterdam, Lisbon

GETTING AROUND

Inter-island travel: Getting between the islands can be done either by flying or taking the ferry or a combination of both.

Flying with BestFly Cabo Verde

Inter-island flying is currently provided by an Angolan company with one plane following a specific route each day of the week that can be found here. It is important to note in your planning that if one flight is delayed, a domino effect will be unleashed for the remaining flights of the day and this is common. I mean, what can you expect from one plane doing all the work? At the moment, however, you cannot buy your tickets online unless you have a local VINTI card. I want to say this is temporary because when the website was first published, I managed to buy tickets online with my European VISA card back in November 2021. So for now, you will have to go through an agency, which will include an additional agency fee. Inter-island flying is not the cheapest for what it is and flights start from about €75 round trip (i.e. Praia – Maio) reaching €200-300.

Cruising with CVInterilhas

Taking the ferry is a cheaper alternative to flying, although it takes longer and the unpredictability of the ocean’s currents can make the journey even longer. The schedule can be found here. You can also buy tickets online here with a VISA card or at the port. I would recommend buying them online in advance as during busy periods, tickets will sell out and for some routes, they do not go every day. For the islands of Brava and Santo Antão, they are only accessible from Fogo and São Vicente, respectively.

Within islands: Getting around the islands depends on the island, your budget and needs. When you first arrive at the airport regardless of the island, take a taxi to your accommodation but always ask how much it is before entering. On island specific posts as I visit them, I will tell you how much a reasonable price is and when they are overcharging you because you are a tourist, and you wouldn’t know any better. Your accommodation can also organize an airport transfer, something I would recommend checking first.

Once you are settled in, you are ready to take a step outside and explore the island. How do you do it? For the most flexibility, I will always recommend renting a car and you can find reasonable prices of about €30-50/day. Alternatively, and depending on the island, have a tour organized in advance or by your accommodation. For the more adventurous travelers out there and/or on a tighter budget, the collective taxi-bus system, known as a hiace or aluguer depending on the island, will help you get around.

Since I am based on Santiago island where they are called hiace, I will continue referring to them as such. Catching a hiace can either be done by going to the terminal where they are stationed or by flagging them down on the road. Ask the driver if they are passing by your destination and how much it is per person before getting in. When they are sitting at the terminal, you should know that they will only leave until every seat is filled so be prepared to sometimes wait around 30 minutes if you are the first one in. And for those who get motion sick, this is a great opportunity to sit in the front or directly behind the driver. It is important not to eat too much or ride hungover because you will feel bad. I have a tendency to feel the motions and I once had to sit at the very back after lunch. Luckily, it went smoothly because I ate just the right amount for things not to start swirling. And looking out the window helped me too. Once you are dropped off, you pay the driver at the window. You can also hire a hiace to drive you around, which works well if you are travelling as a group and definitely negotiate the price to make sure you are both happy with it. For getting around the capital of Praia, taxis are the way to go with each ride within the city center costing you about CVE 150 or 200.

EACH ISLAND AT A GLANCE

BOA VISTA

The easternmost island and the third largest in the archipelago, Boa Vista directly translates to “beautiful view”, and it definitely does the name justice! The island hosts the Viana Desert, incredible marine and terrestrial biodiversity, and endless white sandy beaches meeting turquoise waters perfect for water-related activities or relaxation.
Main city: Sal Rei | Inter-island flight connections: Santiago | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Sal
Why visit Boa Vista in simple terms: desert and beaches; water-related activities and relaxation

BRAVA

The smallest inhabited island of Cabo Verde known as the island of flowers. Brava is known to be one of the greenest islands all-year round just after Santo Antão filled with nature, dramatic cliffs, fauna and flora hidden among the clouds.
Main city: Nova Sinta | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Fogo
Why visit Brava in simple terms: hiking in the greenery on a smaller scale than Santo Antão; an escape into nature and discovering a hidden gem of the archipelago

FOGO

The volcanic island sitting in between Brava and Santiago. Fogo, meaning “fire” in Portuguese reveals what this island has to offer. The volcano remains active with its last eruption as recent as 2014. Pico de Fogo is the highest elevation point in Cabo Verde at 2,829m. Together with Maio, it was recently declared a UNESCO biosphere reserve.
Main city: São Filipe | Flight connections: Santiago | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Brava
Why visit Fogo in simple terms: hiking an active volcano

MAIO

Maio is the kind of island you go to if you are seeking tranquility. This island offers untouched sandy beaches, sleepy towns and an escape into a natural reserve of rolling hills with Monte Batalha being the highest point on the island (294m). Maio also hosts the largest woodland area in Cabo Verde. This makes it possible for Cape Verdeans to produce charcoal near Morrinho without endangering the tree population.
Main city: Porto Inglês (Vila do Maio) | Flight connections: Santiago | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Santiago
Why visit Maio in simple terms: seeking a tranquil weekend escape onto untouched, sandy beaches, sleepy towns or into the nature reserve

SAL

As a golden speck of sand in the middle of the ocean, Sal is the main tourist destination of the archipelago. Given how flat it is compared to the other islands, clouds do not linger for very long making it the island in the sun. This is exactly why it is so frequented by people coming from Europe looking for a sunny escape. Water activities will keep you occupied during your stay on the island. Sal also used to be a center for salt mining, hence the name, giving you a reason to explore beyond your hotel grounds.
Main city: Espargos | Other major cities: Santa Maria | Inter-island flight connections: Santiago, São Nicolau, São Vicente
Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Boa Vista
Why visit Sal in simple terms: beaches and salt mine; water-related activities and relaxation

SANTA LUZIA

The smallest and uninhabited island of the archipelago. Despite being uninhabited, it is included in the ten stars of the national flag as other uninhabited islets also exist. Santa Luzia is known to be dry and barren with a rugged north coast and untouched beaches, and dunes in the south. Efforts are underway to protect this ecosystem.

SANTIAGO

The largest island of the archipelago, home to half of the population and the site of the capital, Praia, this island offers a bit of everything. This underrated island hosts a number of beaches from white sandy Tarrafal meeting emerald waters to dark, volcanic sand and a mixture in between scattered along its coasts. As you move towards the interior, you will be met with an incredible mountainous scenery, the Serra Malagueta and the highest point of Pico do Antónia at 1,392m.
Capital: Praia | Other major cities: Assomada, Calheta de São Miguel, Cidade Velha, Pedra Badejo, Tarrafal
Inter-island flight connections: Boa Vista, Brava, Maio, Sal, São Nicolau, São Vicente | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Maio
Why visit Santiago in simple terms: offers a bit of everything from beaches to hiking in the mountains; a mixture of city life and an escape into nature

SANTO ANTÃO

The mountainous island among the archipelago with greatly contrasting landscapes, soil structures and rock formations. In the western and southern areas when you first dock in Porto Novo, the landscape is dry and barren with minimal greenery. Once you cross into the other side of the island, everything changes taking you into a sub-tropical climate often hiding beneath the clouds. Santo Antão is a hiker’s haven with timeless greenery and rich soils allowing for a variety of agriculture. The landscape is both breathtaking and a breath of fresh air at the same time. How many places do you know can do that?
Main city: Porto Novo | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): São Vicente
Why visit Santo Antão in simple terms: endless hiking in pure greenery and incredible views at every turn; a place to feel grounded

SÃO NICOLAU

Relatively untouched by tourism, São Nicolau offers a little bit of everything from the other mountainous islands with the unique addition of incredible rock formations in Carbeirinho. From its steep mountain slopes to amazing rock formations and fertile valleys, this is the ideal playground for hikers and mountain bikers. It is not as high as Santo Antão and offers better grounds for these activities if you want to go at an easier pace. The highest point is Monte Gorgo at 1,312m.
Main city: Ribeira Brava | Flight connections: Sal, Santiago | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): São Vicente
Why visit São Nicolau in simple terms: offers a bit of everything from the other mountainous islands with the addition of incredibly unique and fascinating rock formations; discovering the other hidden gem of the archipelago

SÃO VICENTE

And finally, São Vicente, known as the cultural island. With the majority of the island’s population concentrated in Mindelo, this port city is pulsating to the sounds of music, its bustling nightlife and held together by cute and quaint buildings. Mindelo is also the birthplace of internationally recognized Cape Verdean singer, Cesária Évora, adding to this island’s cultural reputation. In Mindelo, you will find Porto Grande which used to be the largest harbour in the Atlantic, and thus the respective economic engine of the country. However, over time, it is less frequented as it competes with the ports of Dakar and Abidjan.
Main city: Mindelo | Flight connections: Sal, Santiago | Ferry connections (within reasonable times): Santo Antão, São Nicolau
Why visit São Vicente in simple terms: the pulsating, cultural city of Mindelo and swimming with green turtles in São Pedro; for those with more time or who frequent the islands, spending a slow day by one of the seaside villages or up Monte Verde

LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT!