The Best of Santiago Island: Tarrafal, Cabo Verde

Last Updated: 15 August 2023

Located in the north of the island, Tarrafal is definitely not a place to miss on your visit to Santiago. Living here, this also makes it the ideal weekend getaway from the busy streets of Praia. Tarrafal offers a change to unwind by the nicest beach on the island, enjoy its waters and slow down for a couple of days. In this guide, I will share how to get to Tarrafal from the capital city of Praia (including a budget friendly option), and the different things to see and do during your time in this northern town.

GETTING TO TARRAFAL

Driving from Praia, Tarrafal can be reached via the town of Assomada through the interior of the island. On your way back, I would recommend taking the coastal road through Calheta de São Miguel and Pedra Badejo to change up the scenery. The drive is about 1.5h or 2h if you make a couple of stops along the way. For those on a tighter budget, you can also take a hiace, a taxi-bus type of van, from Sucupira market and it will cost you CVE 500 (€4.50) each way.

WHAT TO SEE + DO

Tarrafal beach

As you enter the bay, the view really takes you aback. There is a range of activities going on and yet it feels serene. You will see fishermen reeling in their catch of the day, locals playing volleyball as the sun sets, locals and tourists alike chilling on the beach with a caipirinha at hand or floating in its emerald waters. It really is the ideal getaway.

Ponta d’Atum

A little cove surrounded by black rocks where you can jump off and have a swim. This is also where the beautiful hotel, King Fisher Village, is located. An ideal spot to stay during your visit. Even if you are not a guest, it is worth stopping by the property for lunch or some drinks. If you do happen to stay in Tarrafal overnight, it is also worth staying for dinner as they curate a well-thought-out menu each night that is exceptionally good. It is a good idea to reserve at least a day in advance and even though it is more expensive than other places in the area, it will be well worth your money. They also mix up some really good cocktails and I highly recommend enjoying their mojitos and caipirinhas at sunset.

Water activities

Diving with Dive Center Santiago

A couple of minutes walk from Ponta d’Atum, you will find Dive Center Santiago equipped with all the necessary gear and support to do some incredible dives and explore the waters in the north of the island. You can also rent snorkelling gear from the dive center if diving is not your thing and you still want to explore the reefs nearby. You can find their prices here (last updated in January 2022).

Surfing with Kabungo Borges, a national surfing champion

Another water activity you can do is surf and to top it off, you would be learning with a national champion, Kabungo Borges. An 1-hour lesson will be €30 or if you are a little more experienced and want the surfing freedom, you can rent gear for the day. Get in touch and I can share his contact details.

Praça Tarrafal

In the center of the city, you will undoubtedly pass by this cute, small square. It really comes together with the view of the Igreja Santo Amaro on one end.

Mar di Baxu

Mar di Baxu is a small beach you can visit while in Tarrafal. For me, this is the ideal spot to have lunch or some sundowners overlooking the sea. Other places to eat are generally located around Praça Tarrafal and Rua Macaco.

Tarrafal Prison Camp

During Portuguese rule, a prison camp was established in Tarrafal, operating over two key periods in Portuguese history and that of African Lusophone (Portuguese speaking) countries. In the 1950s, it served as a site to incarcerate political prisoners during Portugal’s long dictatorship. It was then used again in the 1960s for captured rebels and revolutionaries in the fight against colonial rule. If you are a history enthusiast or just want to better understand this part of Cabo Verdean history and that of Portugal and Lusophone countries, this is the place to check out (entrance fee of CVE 200, ~€1.80).

Hike around Monte Graciosa

On Tarrafal beach, towards the end of the bay, there is a path going above the big TARRAFAL sign engraved into the rocks. As you climb up this path, you will get some incredible views looking over Baía de Tarrafal. You can also follow the coastline further north for more views of the changing landscape. And if you are feeling adventurous, you can also hike around Monte Graciosa. The trail can be followed using the AllTrails app.

Half day trip to Ribeira da Prata

If you want to go beyond Tarrafal, check out the town of Ribeira da Prata, a 15-minute drive from Tarrafal. Silverbeach offers visitors s stretch of black sand and tranquility. Pass Ribeira da Prata to further explore the coastline and reach Piscina Natural de Cuba. As the name suggests, this rocky coastline offers natural pools to chill in. For a more detailed guide on the area of Ribeira da Prata, check out my dedicated post here.

LIKKLE TRAVEL TOOLS

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